Back from the Routeburn NZ

Submitted: Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 16:32
ThreadID: 83213 Views:2727 Replies:4 FollowUps:9
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Just back after an amazing week hiking with my daughter through the magnificent mountains ... Fiordland South Island NZ.

Wow! It was sunny except for the first day when enough rain fell to activate every little waterfall.... the best experience.

Queenstown had barely a Kiwi. Backpackers staff all the tourist shops. 300 restaurants. Very touristy. But the forests and mountains were something to behold. Very comfortable cabins all the way around with only a few difficult walking tracks we made almost a loop by walking the Caples track as well.

The last time I hiked overnight was in 1974... Wilson's Prom. So a slightly new experience. I mowed our lawn while wearing the backpack for several weeks leading up to the hike. The old body held up nicely.

It's very sad that there is little wildlife left. Stoats eat young and eggs. Lots of feral animals.

So.... I think I had better explore more of oz on foot. ... and maybe hire a camper and do NZ properly with the better three quarters.

Happy season all!
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Reply By: Sigmund - Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 17:43

Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 17:43
The Routeburn is a great walk. I did it in 1980. Almost everything in the pack got soaked!
AnswerID: 439663

Reply By: Member - Joe n Mel n kids (FNQ - Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 18:29

Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 18:29
"""" Barely a Kiwi"""" cause they are ALL here, i am tempted to go over there to see some Aussies .................. mind you nicer than some of the grumpys Aussies we have had to deal with, why did the grumpy ones stay here ????
Just maybe all the grumpy Kiwis are left in NZ
:-)

AnswerID: 439669

Reply By: Member - Heather G (NSW) - Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 18:36

Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 18:36
Hi Royce,

It sounds like you had a fantastic week. I am envious.

We were last in NZ around 1980 and from your description, Queenstown must be a lot bigger than when we were there.
We didnt do a lot of walking then but how things have changed for us. I think I have become addicted to it! It is such a good way to experience nature up close and to savour the colours, smells, flora and fauna in each region

We have done only a couple which were longer than day walks but I deliberately choose our travel route around walking opportunities (oh.....and fishing for the other half) which helps to keep us fit and we like to tackle some of the more challenging ones.

We are slowly ticking off the Mountains in each state and want to climb Mt Sonder next year when we get back to the West MacDonnell Ranges, to name just one.

Merry Christmas,

Heather G

Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt. John Muir

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AnswerID: 439670

Follow Up By: Member - Mark (Tamworth NSW) - Sunday, Dec 26, 2010 at 16:02

Sunday, Dec 26, 2010 at 16:02
Heather
Instead of Mt Sonder, why not make a day walk to Counts Point, more memorable than Mt Sonder. There is a 2km fire trail in off Namatijra Drive, enables you to make it a day trip.
Not as high, but more spectacular views?
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Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 20:15

Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 20:15
Fiordland is certainly lovely except its either raining, just been raining or going to rain LOL.

I worked on the Milford Track for 5 years in the 60's and saw it all from 100deg F at Milford to -20F on top of the McKinnon Pass in 8 FEET of snow

It was nice except for the year that a school party doing the Routeburn got caught on the tops and threw away their gear trying to get over the crest to the next hut.

We were down at Milford at the time and had to go and assist the Police who were carying the bodies out They were so stiff one had the feet on his shoulders and one had the head. Not very nice I know, and this was in summer as well.
Another year a Cessna took off from Milford in foggy weather and missed the turn over the Gertrude Saddle. Got stopped by a rock as big as a house.
Had to go out to that one as well.

There wasnt a lot of wildlife then either mostly ducks and deer and the occasional penguin Lots of birds of course and the stoats werent too bad then but were giving the ducks a hard time.

Fishing was great as was the whitebaiting and the crayfish Sadly mostly fished out now. Even the deer have been mostly shot out.

Worst pest were Keas, (mountain parrots) who used to sit on the clothes lines and pull the pegs out Their beaks were strong enough to bend back the flashings on a tin roof.

A marvelous place to live as long as you respected the conditions.

Glad you enjoyed yourselves.


AnswerID: 439687

Follow Up By: fisho64 - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 00:35

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 00:35
Im not sure about the whitebait but Im pretty sure they have a healthy crayfishery there Graham?
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Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 10:51

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 10:51
It has come back a bit but there are a lot less boats fishing crays there now.

In the 60's there was a fleet of something like 50 boats in Milford Sound and they fished the crays nearly to extinction. Same in the Chathams.

Trouble was a lot of illegal undersize fish were taken and so they didnt get to grow up.
When we had a staff barbie the fishermen would come up with a couple of bags of crays Usually unders.
Then wheh the Chathams got going they all went over there and fished that to death. There are still crays there but they are being fished more sensibly these days than then.
The former deer shooters have turned into deer farmers now but the deer are scarce compared to then.
The helicopters shooters pretty much cleaned them up before they started netting them to start the deer farms.

We had a small herd in a valley near us and we were walking up there on our day off to bag a couple and all of a sudden, woop woop and a chopper shot over, a crackle of rifle shots and we just went home.

Half an hour later the chopper ferried them all out on a sling.

The whitebait used to be caught by the bucket load and get flown out by the Cessna load Then for a number of years they almost dissappeared THey have come back but nowhere as good as they were. Last time I bought them it cost $50 for a pack the size of a LB of butter.

We had the only net in the river and could get a 10 ltr bucket full every tide in the season.

Oh for the good old days of getting up and putting on your driest wet clothes and going to work in an inch an hour rain.
Even had a white Xmas there one year LOL

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FollowupID: 711769

Follow Up By: fisho64 - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 13:31

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 13:31
ha-yeah too true but I think alot of the info in there is quite old.
AFAI recall

commercial shooting of deer stopped during the 70's and the areas were segregated into rec and pro.

Chathams certainly got flogged, but its all alot more efficient nowadays so one boat can do what 3+ of the older ones could do now.

And its quotered, not a free-for-all.

Get hold (if you can) a few episodes of a series called "Million Dollar Catch", its a kiwi copy/p+sstake of the similar sounding one about the southern crayfishermen. Its a great watch and a good laugh as well.

Try looking via TVNZ, you may be able to watch online.

I grew up shooting possums for skins/pocketmoney, pity they arent exctinct there.
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FollowupID: 711783

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 13:55

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 13:55
I have watched it on 7 mate I think it was up till last week.

Nothing funny about crayfishing in bad weather. I went out once after a night on the turps. Turned out is was the second roughest day of the season.

Spent the trip in the head with my body trying to turn inside out. Never again.

Yes it and us have all changed I went back to Milford in the 80s and 90's and it wasnt the same.

They were still shooting in the 70's when I lived at Wanaka but Tim Wallis had started netting and had a deer farm by the Golf course.

I went to school with one of the better shooters, a Gavin??? Overton

They will never get the last deer nor possum or stoat either.

A pity Possums arent exinct here as well with the damage they do. Was a lot of money in Possum skins once but not any more I dont think.

With hindsight getting wet almost everyday for months hasnt helped my aging joints a lot
Nor has carrying tourists packs down hill for a couple of hours slowly every day done a lot for my knees.

Cheers



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Follow Up By: fisho64 - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 17:28

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 17:28
"Nothing funny about crayfishing in bad weather. I went out once after a night on the turps. Turned out is was the second roughest day of the season. "

Ive been at sea most of my working life, crayfishing, southern ocean longlining 7 years of winters (no shelter at all) and now O&G cargo etc, so we need to laugh it off onboard!

But the funny bit is when they get on the turps etc. Didnt know it was screened over here though.

sorry everyone about the OT.

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Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 18:20

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 18:20
?????????????????????????

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Follow Up By: fisho64 - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 18:54

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 18:54
the guys on Million Dollar Catch I mean.
One episode I saw they rafted up in Perseverance Inlet and got so slaughtered that one skipper could barely see to walk around the deck in the morning.
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Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 21:07

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 21:07
Sounds normal for MIlford.

One wandered down to the boats out of his skull and disappeared. Everyone thought he had taken a car and gone home to invercargill.

A week later on a very low tide when a launch was reversing out of the dock a very worm eaten body popped up in front of 100 or so traumatised tourists.

He had started walking across the rails of the boats to get to his and slipped and hit his head on the next rail and in he went..

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